le sauce

the best potato chips

I mentioned Covered Bridge in a post years ago--when I came back from a trip to New Brunswick where the potato chip maker turns out kettles of fried chips not far from where the potatoes are dug up. But after returning from a recent visit, I have to go on about them again. I love these chips so much that I'm torn between whether these or those greasy chips in waxy bags from my childhood are the best chips ever. Anywhere.

Their regular chips are perfection. They taste like perfectly fried and salted super-thin potato chips--it shouldn't be hard but that's rare right off the bat. But then they have these thick cut chips that are just slightly thicker than the ones you think you want--yet that little difference means more visible skin and, oh, what that sliver of skin does for the flavour. Think of the best skin-on french fries you've ever had. It adds a touch more earthiness and potato to the bite without crossing the line to some sort of specialty potato chip. And at first glance you might think their holiday mix has some strange mix of flavour sprinkles coating them but no--that vibrant colour comes strictly from blue, red, white and yellow potatoes! Sorry to tease you with those because though CB's chips are being carried across Canada more and more, I haven't seen these anywhere outside of their little factory yet.

And I don't have to tell why I love their packaging. Having seen it now, you're probably a fan too.

you've done this before

I mentioned that James and I were recently in New Brunswick to visit his family. It was more than just an annual (ok, biannual) visit. We went to celebrate Grammie's 90th birthday! Celebrations lasted all weekend with family travelling in from all parts of the country, and they took place at a beautiful "tractor barn"/workshop, conveniently outfitted with a kitchen since it's now a regular gathering place for the community. The place was airy, flooded with natural light and the late owner's antique, restored red tractors lined one wall.

As if that wasn't charming enough, I was warmed to see the ladies of the local Women's Institute (Grammie's peers) busy making finger sandwiches for the party while we set up the decorations. They made hundreds of soft, creamy, crust-less delicacies and they did it with minimal mess, over casual chatter and had time to enjoy a few for lunch when they were done. I think I'm safe in assuming they've made a few in their time. It was lovely to watch expert hands and hearts go to work.

trip snacks

James and I are heading east soon to visit his family in New Brunswick. I miss them--can't wait to see them plus enjoy a big family meal with them and gorge on their experience their traditions again. There's also a beautiful restaurant in his home town I'm looking forward to returning to, a potato chip factory(!) that I must visit and an east-coast vice to partake in: Pizza Delight.

But before I get there, there's all the eating I have to do en route. Despite NB being a short flight from Toronto, there's still the waiting around at airports and the long drive to his family's house that I need to consider. Ok fine, the entire journey falls squarely between meal times but this is a great excuse for snacking and I'm not about to pass it up.

I'm armed with dates, nuts, seaweed packets, a spicy roasted dal snack and my favourite tea. We're making sandwiches for something more filling that lets us avoid that dreaded over-priced, underwhelming meal from a food stand or on the plane. But I'm most excited about these sticky rice packets I bought in an East-Asian grocery. They can be heated ahead of time to be eaten hot or at room temperature, and they come in their own packaging--banana leaves. They'll be a welcome treat when I get seriously hungry, even after munching through all my other snacks. You know, half an hour after I leave home.

more herbs than you can shake a chef's knife at

As I mentioned in a recent article on iVillage Canada, I like to frequent farmer's markets and my mother pushes produce plucked from her thriving garden on me all summer long. Between the two, I thought I knew a thing or two about herbs. I've had to get creative to use up what was a bushel of tarragon. I have fresh, dry and frozen curry leaves in my house at this very moment and will soon be housing my own curry plant. But five minutes at the Union Square Market in NYC last month and I realized I haven't seen even a tiny fraction of all the herbs out there. One vendor sold no less than 25 different types of basil (basil!) so you can imagine that there were herbs on offer I'd never seen the likes of. 

You already know that my go-to way to use up herbs that are threatening to wilt in my fridge is to pile them all onto a pasta. It's surprising how an entire bunch of cilantro, chopped and added to warm pasta dressed in fried garlic, chilies and simply seasoned olive oil makes for one of the most satisfying dinners. And the news is also out that I can't have enough pesto in the summer and that I've discovered the joy of basically drinking herbs. Imagine the concoctions the people who live near Union Square come up with every week? And don't even get me started on the abundance of varieties of, well, everything else. See for yourself.

 

the perfect pieces: everything at abc carpet + home

 

Ok, one more post about my trip to New York last month. Aside from dinner at ABC Kitchen, I finally paid a visit to the flagship houseware store, abc home. I knew I'd covet just about everything in the store, but I had no idea how much I'd covet the actual store itself. It's pretty much a magical pantry, with shelves and display cases almost as beautiful as plates of the thinnest porcelain, spun into organic shapes with gold trim.

 

  

And what wasn't that precious, was stacked, nestled into vintage crates or leaning against contrasting deep blue walls. I could have moved in immediately, even before realizing I could get to the restaurant right through the store itself. A tiny wardrobe for my things and this is my dream home. 

the ingredient: shishito peppers

Please excuse this blurry iPhone photo. Although I ate one hundred of them in one week, it seemed every time I was served shishito peppers in New York, it was at night and I might have had a drink or two before aiming my mobile camera. But poor or not, I had to show you this photo so you'd have a better chance of finding Japanese shishito peppers.

They're a little spicy but it's a slow heat, sort of like a serrano chili but much milder--though every once in a while I bit into one with a lot more heat than the others. They taste a little like a cross between a serrano and a jalepeno, with looks to match--not super thin or pointy, not fat either. I had them deep fried with yuzu salt at Ippudo and pan fried with cilantro and Persian lime at Five Leaves (my favourite of the two). I want to try them grilled, breaded, raw, sautéed and every other way imaginable but first, I need to find them. I called one Japanese grocery store and they said "Yes!" They carry shishitos! "Oh but, no. No, not this week." Apparently these have been trendy and on many menus in New York last fall. If they aren't all the rage in your town yet, start asking for them. Maybe you and I will eventually find raw shishitos so we can enjoy them at home, but it can't hurt to hedge our bets.

cookbook i'm craving: the new brooklyn cookbook

This isn't exactly the kind of cookbook I'd usually covet. For one thing, I find compilations sometimes have forced themes. Does someone necessarily want a bunch of recipes from an area, if the regional cuisine isn't a common thread? Actually, in the case of The New Brooklyn Cookbook, I do. It happens to include recipes from restaurants where I've had food so satisfying and interesting to me that I was inspired to recreate or create meals as a result. There are recipes from No. 7, The General Greene, Buttermilk Channel, FIve Leaves--all of which I would happily return to--so I think I might actually cook from this cookbook.

Even if you haven't set foot in Brooklyn, you might be intrigued because of the ongoing buzz it's new(ish) restaurants continue to receive. As the authors state in their introduction, the book is about the culinary energy that's moved through Brooklyn in the last decade, creating destination restaurants, and the people and the recipes behind them. It's a chance to taste a little of that creativity even if it's in your kitchen instead of a dining room in Williamsburg.

herb soup w/ eggplant bacon...plus ABC kitchen (manhattan)

One day in late spring I was cooking so many things at once that my counter was covered in tough, outer baby artichoke leaves, leek tops and empty pea pods. I could have tossed them all out but I bagged them and shoved them in the freezer instead. Weeks later, I soaked the scraps in warm water to thaw them, rinsed them well, and along with some garlic they formed the flavor base of a fresh, cool spring soup in the heat of summer. After simmering for half an hour, I strained and discarded those dutiful misfits, lowered bundles of bright herbs in to add the top notes to my soup, then cooled it before serving.

While I was happy to use those scraps so well, the whole reason behind making this soup was to chop up what might seem like too many fresh herbs and serve them on top. I've been obsessed with the idea of sipping a soup and practically having to chew on fresh herbs since I had a similar experience at ABC Kitchen--their sweet pea soup had generous strands of mint floating on top of it. It wasn't overpowering at all, but it was such a memorable part of the soup.

Although the croutons in their soup were delicious, I think I chose an even better topping for mine, if I do say so myself. Remember that eggplant bacon I wrote about once? I skipped the fake stuff (liquid smoke) and instead brushed my eggplant with smoked paprika, oil and salt before roasting the slivers in the oven. I wasn't expecting them to come out looking anything like bacon, so I had to show you the picture below. How did the eggplant know what I wanted it to become?

Magic.

Everything at ABC Kitchen was wonderful--except for me. I had been dreaming of dining there for over a year, hearing nothing but rave reviews, tweets and "mmmm"'s and as I put on my dress to get ready...I almost threw up. Out of nowhere. Just not feeling so good. Le sigh... I did my best to literally grin and bear it but I only got through the first course. The soup was so good, it resonated despite my horrible state, but clearly I need a do-over as soon as possible. I can tell you that the pickled snacks they start you off with, the creative cocktails (I had only sips of them--that is how low I felt), the service and the stunning, rustic yet whimsical setting were without flaw. Get there if you can.

burrata and eataly (manhattan)

At the La Verdure counter at Eataly in Mahattan, I ordered a simply delicious crostini. Grilled corn and black garlic on softened butter spread onto thick slices of bread. It was basically a 4-ingredient meal and as satisfying as 4-course one. Good crostini comes down to really few but really good toppings and it's a perfect way to highlight something special, like that caramalized corn and that black garlic, or...

...burrata. A special, and not altogether inexpensive treat, it's a fresh buffalo mozzarella pouch housing a thick cream and more of the remnant strands of mozarella that make up the pouch itself. It can be enjoyed a number of ways but I always want it the way you see pictured here.

1. Grill or lightly toast a thick, airy slice of bread, rub it lightly with a cut clove of garlic and season with salt while it's still hot. 
2. Quarter a ball of burrata lengthwise, lay a slice on top and press/smear it over the crostini with the back of your spoon. 
3. FInish with some fresh, finely sliced or baby basil leaves, a drizzle of your best extra virgin olive oil, a sprinkle of Maldon salt and the tiniest bit of freshly cracked black pepper. 
4. Eat and ascend to the heavens simultaneously.

But back to Eataly--the new Italian grocery/eatery on W23rd and 5th in Manhattan. I love Lidia Basianich and since she is a partner in Eataly, I was secretly hoping to see here there. Nope. I guess our meeting is slated for the future instead. I was impressed nonetheless. The upscale grocery aisles are filled with imported dry pastas and local, organic yogurt, with gourmet prepared foods for sale to go, and also meat, cheese, and wine bars surrounding marble counter tops at which you stand and eat the picnic-basket items you just secured. Surrounding that are three small, barely cordoned-off restaurants, one focusing on seafood, one on vegetables. Sounds chaotic but it all flows rather nicely. I ate dinner alone at the counter of La Verdure one night, met a few locals who lived on the block and popped in after a long day at the office for good food and a glass of wine, and relished my crostini. 

creamy kale salad, five leaves restaurant & other new york inspiration*

My friend Steph has been staying with me on and off for the past two weeks and in that time, she has requested this salad three times, on top of the two times I made it for her prior. She really likes this salad but to be fair, she also just really, really likes kale. I, on the other hand like kale, but am not as addicted to it as she is, and I can still honestly say that I still haven't got enough of this salad. I think you'll enjoy it just as much and you might have it on repeat in your house once you try it too.

Kale leaves are perfect for the very creamy, salty dressing that needs both a texture and a flavour that can stand up to it. It was inspired by a kale salad I had at Five Leaves in Brooklyn. I was in New York City a month ago and I was really looking forward to eating at Five Leaves, which had been on my list of restaurants to try when I was there in the fall of 2009. I ran out of time then, so I put it near the top of my list on my recent visit, and it's as laid back, cool and delicious a destination as I'd heard.

My friend, Lulu, and I loved everything we ordered there, and I indulged in this salad even though I usually stay away from dressings which contain anchovies, and theirs did. It was essentially a spicy kale Caesar salad with hazelnuts. In my version, olives and feta combine to make a umami-packed, very convincing faux-Caesar dressing. And the spice and nuts in their salad reminded me instantly of the nutty paprika oil from a recipe I created a year ago. It adds just the right finish and I highly recommend making the tiny extra effort. And that you visit Five Leaves if you ever get the chance. 

(Above Five Leaves, Brooklyn; their Chopped Black Kale.)

*As you'd expect, I was inspired by so many food experiences from my last visit to New York, so this week I'll be bringing you my favourite tastes. Hope you enjoy it!