le sauce

first taste: hoagies at the huxtable house

Childhood picture books, stories and TV shows that depicted food and dining made a real impression on me. Illustrations of steaming bowls of pasta or a piece of toast smothered in purple jam gave me my first taste of foods I'd yet to try, and are sometimes still the archetypes I hold food up to today. Instead of simply reminisce, I'm going to bring those dishes to life the way I imagined they'd be.

 

There's still no other TV family that I'd rather be adopted by than the Huxtables. They tried to introduce the necessary amount of drama into an episode here and there, but you knew everything would be fine because through it all Cliff and Claire were smart, in love, unfailingly successful, the house was always perfect, everyone looked great (I wish I channeled my inner Denise Huxtable more) and there was always great food. There were fridge raids when Theo's friends were over, take-out pizza when Claire wasn't looking, there was callaloo for dinner and there were feasts in the dining room for birthdays and dinner parties--and everyone dressed up for those too.

But of all things, I craved a sandwich--a big, sub-style sandwich, when Cliff sat down to a hoagie. This is a famous clip of the first meeting of the "Huxtable Men's Club" and hoagies are on the menu. Big plans but in the end, only Cliff can make the meeting (briefly) and at around the 1m 39s mark, you see him sit down to a large hoagie and soda--his signature indulgence.

This is not the episode that did it for me, however. It was actually the one in the image below where he's having his hoagie with an orange soda (his other common drink of choice was a chocolate soda! was this a yoo-hoo? don't know I've ever had a chocolate soda...) and starts to load potato chips into the sandwich. I can still remember getting so excited to see that. How daring and brilliant and over-the-top that appeared to child-me. But I also picked up on how passionate Cliff was about this sandwich and even if I didn't realize it, that's what sold the whole thing.

  (All stills above via Cosby Show Caps)

This was something so good, he didn't even sit on the couch to eat it. He settled on the floor in that sweet spot between the foot of the couch and the coffee table where you can lean back comfortably and have the food be as close as possible to your face without having to hold a plate. The optimal way to enjoy a treat, particulary "bad" and entirely yours, in front of the TV. He was right about hoagies in general, of course. A soft, submarine roll, filled with a little lettuce, drizzled with a light vinaigrette, slathered with mayo, loaded with meat (I had to get the fake stuff for this one), Provolone cheese, toppings (mine were quick pickles, sauteed peppers and onions) and finally, quintessential potato chips.

And, of course, I had some orange soda to wash it down. 

you've done this before

I mentioned that James and I were recently in New Brunswick to visit his family. It was more than just an annual (ok, biannual) visit. We went to celebrate Grammie's 90th birthday! Celebrations lasted all weekend with family travelling in from all parts of the country, and they took place at a beautiful "tractor barn"/workshop, conveniently outfitted with a kitchen since it's now a regular gathering place for the community. The place was airy, flooded with natural light and the late owner's antique, restored red tractors lined one wall.

As if that wasn't charming enough, I was warmed to see the ladies of the local Women's Institute (Grammie's peers) busy making finger sandwiches for the party while we set up the decorations. They made hundreds of soft, creamy, crust-less delicacies and they did it with minimal mess, over casual chatter and had time to enjoy a few for lunch when they were done. I think I'm safe in assuming they've made a few in their time. It was lovely to watch expert hands and hearts go to work.

jibaritos with guava paste

Months ago I learned what a jibarito was, when I came across it on a blog. I bookmarked the recipe for this grilled cheese sandwich that uses ripe plaintain in place of bread, but I could never make it--I was missing a key ingredient. And then a few weeks ago, my aunt walked into the kitchen with it: guava paste! Her friend brought it back with her from Guyana and gifted it to my aunt, who spread the jelly on toast as you might any other. And true to her generous nature, she brought some over with me, not knowing I'd searched for it in vain for some time now.

It was fitting that we made the jibaritos together--she cooks plantain but had never had it like this. Sections of the plantain roast in the oven before being pressed flat and pan-fried like a common grilled cheese sandwich. The guava paste is just the thing--brining out a little of the sweetness in the plantain and pairing so well the cheese as fruit preserves do. Having had it now, I can tell you that any jelly would make a decent substitute for guava paste, and jibaritos are special. The texture of the plantain, dense and almost fiberous, separates it completely from grilled cheese sandwiches in my mind. Jibaritos are a whole other new, delicious thing to enjoy and to crave suddenly and fixatedly a few times a year. You're welcome.

tomato gratinée on fried toasts with serrano mayo

I wouldn't normally mess with perfection, and who would argue that you could improve on an ripe, late-August, heirloom tomato? In fact, these are still virtually raw, and it's the flaky Panko, Parmesan and herb topping that takes the brunt of a few moments under the broiler. I was just looking for another way to celebrate this fruit. Raw, halved, sprinkled with extra-virgin olive oil and Maldon salt is another version of perfection, as is the famous butter, mayonnaise, summer tomato sandwich that's made it's way across the internet for years. This is just that sandwich...but better, because,

it starts with frying bread. 

Bread that is buttered on both sides, generously, gets golden and lightly crispy in a hot pan, then hangs around--preferably on a grated surface so it doesn't get soggy while you carry on with the two other small tasks. A serrano chili has heat but also the flavour I wanted to spike my mayonnaise with (store-bought this time, but feel free to make your own). You can use a milder chili or even a drop of chili oil for a different but, I'm sure, delicious take. And change up the herbs if you'd like too--I used parsley and chives. But the Panko and Parmesan topping is the best combo for the topping, I think. The cheese is classic and the uncrushed Panko stays light though gently crisped, which is a nice bookend to the fried toasts on the other side of this open-faced sandwich. It's new favourite for this summer. Let me know if it becomes yours too.

must make: general tso's tofu sub, jibaritos, inside/out grilled cheese

(the most indulgent sandwich week ever)

Just in case all the indulgent sandwiches this week weren't enough, I'm leaving you with a few more we must make. I made No.7's EPIC General Tso's Tofu Sub. It took a lot of restraint to take the picture above before attacking it. It's pillowy and yields when you bite in, but the flavours are powerfully salty, sweet and tangy. Definitely worth the effort to make the marinade and the sauce for which the sandwich is named. And of course you can use that famous sauce to make many other things as well (I wish I'd doubled it for use in a stir fry).

And have you ever heard of a jibarito? It's a sandwich that uses slices of fried green plantain in place of bread! I love the idea of a grilled cheese jibarito with guava paste and the only reason I haven't made it yet is because I haven't gone out of my way to source that paste yet. Soon. Soooon.

As for the ultimate grilled cheese, I have to say, it's gotta be one where the cheese is pressed into the outer sides of the bread. Just imagine the crust that forms as it fries! A fried cheese-bread grilled cheese, essentially.

If you missed any of the sandwiches from the most indulgent sandwich week ever, I hope you'll check them all out--and please, tell me if you tried any of them! Also, pleeease tell me about your most indulgent sandwich creations too. 

Fried Oyster Mushroom Sandwich with Harissa Mayonnaise

Pulled Jackfruit Sandwich with Ginger Beer BBQ Sauce

The Poutine Sandwich with Tamari Gravy

Homemade Condiments! Quick Pickles, Mustard and Mayonnaise

 

the poutine sandwich, with tamari gravy

(the most indulgent sandwich week ever)

Until recently, the last time I'd had an open-faced sandwich smothered in gravy, was years ago, back in my meat-tastic days. And it was never as good as this. I'm not bragging--just think about the last one you had. Did it have melting cheese curds covering it, or french fries right on it? Probably not. This sort of combines the best of those open-faced sammies with one of best thing on earth: poutine.

And I guess poutine should be explained for any of you have never heard of it. It's a specialty of Quebec, although I'd argue that Toronto has taken a really decent stab at it over the last few years, with dedicated poutine counters popping up evenly over its downtown core. It's essentially this:

...cheese curds

    and killer gravy...

...on perfectly fried french fries. Perfect fries are usually double-cooked in oil: first at a lower temperature to par-cook them and ensure they're "done" on the inside, and then at a higher, fry temperature to get them golden and cripsy.

Now, if you've had poutine in Toronto, you know there are a number of places that offer up satisfying non-beef gravy options, usually a mushroom gravy. And sometimes those gravies are so good that they're the only gravy on offer. I approve, of course. But though I make mushroom gravies and think they are best for some things, this tamari gravy is some of the best poutine gravy I've ever had, and I'm reaching back to my beef gravy days when I say this. A salty beef gravy on french fries was my high school cafeteria lunch most days (eternally grateful for my quick metabolism back then) so I'm speaking from ample experience, but this tamari gravy is perfect here. It's not my recipe, and I don't tweak it because there's no need.

This is a trashy sandwich and I toasted trashy, white sandwich bread for it, in my attempt to remake those open-faced sandwiches of (my) yore. I did dress it up with maldon salt and freshly ground black pepper, because what doesn't benefit from a sprinkling of that? Also, for me, ketchup on the side and then eventually criss-crossed all over the top--but you do as you please. Of course you need a high-fructose, all-bad-for-you cola to wash this down. Bonus points if you spill lots of rum into it before sipping.

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Look! Links to the other sammies from the most indulgent sandwich week ever!
Fried Oyster Mushroom Sandwich with Harissa Mayonnaise
Pulled Jackfruit Sandwich with Ginger Beer BBQ Sauce
Homemade Condiments! Quick Pickles, Mustard and Mayonnaise

pulled jackfruit sandwich with ginger beer bbq sauce

(the most indulgent sandwich week ever)

If you saw my curried jackfruit recipe, you may already be convinced of its meatiness. I mean just look at it. And if you've ever eaten jackfruit, it probably comes as no surprise that its been used as a vegetarian pulled pork substitute, which I thought was a fantastic idea. There aren't many times that I try to substitute the meat in meaty meals, but this is one of them. And although it's easy to make canned jackfruit taste good (just drain the pieces, rinse and drain again, then sautée and add any flavours you want), I wanted to go all the way with this.

This sandwich is awesome because of the texture of the jackfruit but also because of this sticky, sweet barbeque sauce--which has a little kick... 

 

The kick comes from ginger beer. I wanted to get a little of that ginger heat into this sauce and adding ginger beer provided not only intense flavour, but it added lots of sweetness too. Barbeque sauce is complex, and because this one is built from the ground up, there are a number of ingredients you need to gather. But most live in your kitchen already, I'd bet, and once they're measured out, this sauce comes together in 15 minutes. Any leftovers make a delicious dip for french fries or chips. So I hear. 

Look! Links to the other sammies from the most indulgent sandwich week ever!
Fried Oyster Mushroom Sandwich with Harissa Mayonnaise
The Poutine Sandwich with Tamari Gravy
Homemade Condiments! Quick Pickles, Mustard and Mayonnaise

homemade quick pickles, mustard and mayonnaise

(the most indulgent sandwich week ever)

If we're going to try to make the most awesome sandwiches, we can't overlook the condiments. They may not make or break a sandwich, but the best condiements catapult humble sandwiches to another level.

Store-bought mustards are ok, but you've compared them to the ones you get from artisans at the market right? Or brand-name pickles to your grammie's jars? This is a realm where the homemade stuff wins every time, and given how easy it is to make condiments at home, you can have one or two of them on hand, at least once in a while.

Plus you can make it personal. I'm talking about custom mustard.

Who doesn't want that?

Look! Links to the sammies from the most indulgent sandwich week ever!
Fried Oyster Mushroom Sandwich with Harissa Mayonnaise
Pulled Jackfruit Sandwich with Ginger Beer BBQ Sauce
The Poutine Sandwich with Tamari Gravy

fried oyster mushroom sandwich

(the most indulgent sandwich week ever)

I could tell you that this is the best sandwich ever, but there are so many more to come this week--the most indulgent sandwich week ever--that it might be too soon to decide. This may be end up being your favourite, it might, in fact, be mine. It will be hard to choose, I promise.

I've never had a po' boy sandwich, but I suppose you could consider this to be a vegetarian version of one. The inspiration for it was one of my favourite sandwiches at a café I used to frequent. Wild mushrooms and fried shallots made that sandwich. I wanted fried mushrooms and although frying oyster mushrooms on their own is just fine, a seasoned panko breading adds so much texture to this sandwich that it's the only way to go.

After that, it's all about a few key toppings. I have to insist on smoked cheese specifically here, I must, and I hope you can all get your hands on harissa paste to mix into your mayonnaise. If you can't find harissa, add some paprika, salt and squirt of lime juice to your mayonnaise. Pickled shallots are perfect here, but any tart, savoury pickle will work in a pinch. 

This recipe makes two sandwiches. How many people should that feed...I'll let you decide that too.

Look! Links to the other sammies from the most indulgent sandwich week ever!
Pulled Jackfruit Sandwich with Ginger Beer BBQ Sauce
The Poutine Sandwich with Tamari Gravy
Homemade Condiments! Quick Pickles, Mustard and Mayonnaise

meat-free sloppy joe

I had to satisfy that craving for mushroom bolognese over the weekend. It hit the spot and, as usual, I had some sauce left over. Why did it never occur to me before to use any extras for sloppy joes? I hadn't had one in decades (decades!) and they're just as good as I remembered. Lunch yesterday was a heaping cup of bolognese on a soft kaiser with spicy pickled vegetables on the side. My craving for mushroom bolognese is settled but I'm already craving another sloppy joe sandwich. You're witnessing the start of a delicious, vicious cycle.