le sauce

saffron risotto & paprika-fried eggs

You see an egg, I see a crouton.

I gave up thinking about what the perfect thing would be to top this risotto. A risotto, saffron or otherwise, doesn't need to be topped at all. I wasn't looking for something that would add a lot of flavour, especially considering the fact that I didn't want anything that would compete with the saffron, so I thought about chopped and seared king mushrooms, which I still think would be a fine idea. But I settled on small croutons, tossed in more saffron butter, or better yet, paprika butter to give them a little more colour. I would toss them in the butter that I made to stir though this risotto (the tiniest of spins on finishing a risotto with butter). And then? 

Then I finished the risotto and flat out forgot to make the croutons. It's not like I could make them once the risotto was done--few things are as unforgiving as risotto that has been sitting around for a minute past its prime. So I enjoyed the risotto as-is that night and put the leftovers in the fridge. To stretch out the meek remains for breakfast for two, I planned to top the risotto with eggs and the idea you see here was born: I fried the eggs in the butter and paprika mixture intended for the croutons, and let the edges of the egg crisp up for a little contrast in texture. And that's how I'll make this forever more.

The egg yolk makes the risotto just a little richer and creamier--as its other traditional finishing ingredients, butter and cheese, are intended to do. I used smoked paprika for my eggs and it complimented the risotto without overpowering the saffron. Tastier and more luxurious than a crouton by far, as you can imagine. But why imagine when you have a recipe?

black rice and ramp risotto

Black rice is even cooler than it looks. I confess I bought a bag of it with an idea for this very risotto in mind, and that I singled it out for its looks alone. I pictured it shiny, black and creamy with bright grilled greens on top. It was only in trying to learn more about it to share with you that I discovered that it's apparently crazy good for you too.

That black colour is an indication of the anthocyanin antioxidants that are found in it. It's the same antioxidant in other blue/purple-black food, like blueberries, but black rice contains much more of it, without all of those sugars and with more fiber.

And that colour?

It bleeeeeeeds out. It was almost as if I'd added red wine, not white, when the liquid hit the pot. The hue kept spilling out and while the black rice changed to dark purple, it didn't loose much more of its colour while it cooked. I ended up with that shocking, stained risotto I was after, and I was mesmerized while stirring. 

But enough about beauty and more about flavour. Ramps are one of those fleeting foods that pop up in markets and certain stores in Toronto for a short time in early spring. If you've never had them, they're wild leeks that and taste a little like peeled young garlic at the base, but whose leaves are flat, tender and full of flavour too. Grilled ramp leaves are spectacular and if you haven't tried them that way before, you are in for such a treat.

But, if you can't source ramps for this recipe, leeks, scallions or shallots can replace the ramp bulbs for building flavour in the beginning of this risotto recipe, and grill your favourite spring vegetable to have with this risotto: fiddleheads, asparagus or young leeks would be nice. 

Lastly, don't be intimidated by risotto if you've never made it at home. Yes, there is some stirring involved and a few things you have to watch out for, but the good news is, most of the signs you're looking for are obvious...

cabbage "risotto"

Ok. To avoid any disappointment or chastising (you wouldn't! would you?) this is not a risotto. Hence the " " in the title. This recipe is an adaptation of Marcella Hazan's Rice and Smothered Cabbage Soup, in which I decided to add a lot more rice because I was hungry, and because I thought I could turn this from a soup into a creamier pseudo-risotto. And it is creamy, but not silky like a risotto. It's has vegetables and broth thickening with the starch of Arborio rice, which is reminiscent of a risotto, and quite frankly, I didn't know what else to call it. Perhaps creamy, cabbage rice? But once we get past expectations and the discussion of what's in a name, you'll find this tastes just as sweet.

Because it has a lot of sweet, Savoy cabbage stewed down to almost nothing. Two whole pounds of cabbage go into the pot, which makes the turning of it in the early stages of cooking a little challenging--I recommend using tongs. And while it does take a lot of time to cook down, it cooks over low heat, so you can do other things as long as you set a timer to remind yourself to go back to stir and make sure the bottom isn't burning or sticking. And if it is, you add a little more water. Easy. No standing or stirring like a risotto. Just risotto-like, in the end.

i love you, spontaneous sunday lunches

ok, i already have spring fever! on top of enjoying unseasonably warm temps this past weekend, my family enjoyed a spread that definitely reminded me of an early spring meal. my parents were coming by and i planned to make some sort of casserole with rice and roast vegetables, and my mom wasn't supposed to bring anything. but when i started preparing to cook i realized i had way more vegetables on hand so i decided to roast them on their own and make a risotto instead of a casserole. and my mom just can't help herself and brings "just something small" she tried every time she comes over no matter what she said earlier.

brussel sprouts, carrots, beets and leeks are not spring vegetables, it's true, but something about how fresh and light the colours were before and even after roasting (to the left and right respectively above) felt...well, fresh and light! they tasted light too. i tossed most of the vegetables in just oil, salt and pepper and added some chopped sage to just the beets and carrots. 

and although risottos are warm, hearty fare, they always remind me of spring because i always see pretty pictures and recipes for spring asparagus or fresh pea risotto. i didn't have a recipe for the one i made this weekend and i didn't think to make notes on it as i went because this was a last-minute idea. but it turned out nicely-my dad really liked it! i sauteed the white part of a leek with some garlic and mushrooms, and added the leftover beet greens and stems i had on hand after roasting the beets. i used vegetable broth but i didn't have any wine on hand. at the end i added a pat of butter and parmesan cheese.

but i think the highlight of the meal was these stuffed pepper rings that my mother brought over. they were coated with panko bread crumbs on both sides so each bite was crispy and the filling was so savory. she saw a recipe on tv for this but it called for a meat filling. she minced mushrooms instead and sauteed them with onions and spinach, and then she added parmesan and almond slivers which i think the recipe called for. another twist she introduced was the addition of minced sun-dried tomatoes. these were packed with flavour--i had the leftovers the next day and they were even better. 

for dessert: a little pound cake, courtesy of my aunt who couldn't make it (who sends food even when they can't stop by? my family.) and mapleton's organic ginger ice cream which is so good that i'm worried that i've discovered it. and some hot jasmine tea. a really pleasant and mostly unplanned sunday lunch.