le sauce

vegetable tagine with preserved lemons

Tagine is a stew as easy as any other to make, but I hardly ever attempted it at home, preferring to eat it at a restaurant, strongly preferring to eat it on travels where Morrocan cuisine is established. The reason, the version I made at home was never as good. The reason for that? No preserved lemons until last week. I never bought them because I knew it would be so simple to make them once I got around to it. You can either buy or preserve your own. I recommend the latter so that you can serve them, cook with them or simply snack on them at will. And you will. We've gone through 2 whole lemons since opening this jar on the weekend and only one half of one went into this tagine.

sweet garlic eggplant

One night James made steamed eggplant and rice for dinner, and I couldn't get enough of it. I raved, gave thanks, asked for more, asked that he make it again. He knew what was coming, I'm sure. I asked him to write down the recipe so I could share it here. He hates when I do that (it wasn't the first time). He doesn't like following recipes and he certainly doesn't like me following his recipes. And I know why.

Because the same dish he made for dinner, once unconditionally loved and praised, was now poked, prodded, questioned and doubted.

Me: The ratio in your sauce looks... well, isn't the sesame oil going to overpower it?

James: This is the ratio from the time you liked it. You said this was the one.

Me: Oh. Good. But why do you add it last? Since you're already steaming the eggplant, shouldn't you add the sauce first so it cooks a little and the flavours come together?

James: No, the sauce doesn't need to cook.

Me: Then why add the sauce to the pan at all? All of the other ingredients are cooked, you could just toss the eggplant in it.

James: Because the eggplant makes the sauce thicker. Trust me.

Me: Mmmmkay.... So, why do you steam it sooo much/leave the garlic cloves whole/etc.

James: Because that's how I like it. I thought you said you liked this.

Me: No, I do! I do...

And I do. He was right about everything. I had him tweak what I was skeptical about but it was better his way: I saw the sauce thicken with my own eyes, you do need to add the eggplant first, steaming it a little too much is nice, uneven pieces actually add to the sauce, I even asked him to slice some garlic thinner, only to end up picking at the whole, steamed bulbs he'd set aside for himself (yeah, he loved that part especially). In the end--or the beginning, rather, he had a simple, great recipe, and I remembered that I knew that the first time I tried it.

herb soup w/ eggplant bacon...plus ABC kitchen (manhattan)

One day in late spring I was cooking so many things at once that my counter was covered in tough, outer baby artichoke leaves, leek tops and empty pea pods. I could have tossed them all out but I bagged them and shoved them in the freezer instead. Weeks later, I soaked the scraps in warm water to thaw them, rinsed them well, and along with some garlic they formed the flavor base of a fresh, cool spring soup in the heat of summer. After simmering for half an hour, I strained and discarded those dutiful misfits, lowered bundles of bright herbs in to add the top notes to my soup, then cooled it before serving.

While I was happy to use those scraps so well, the whole reason behind making this soup was to chop up what might seem like too many fresh herbs and serve them on top. I've been obsessed with the idea of sipping a soup and practically having to chew on fresh herbs since I had a similar experience at ABC Kitchen--their sweet pea soup had generous strands of mint floating on top of it. It wasn't overpowering at all, but it was such a memorable part of the soup.

Although the croutons in their soup were delicious, I think I chose an even better topping for mine, if I do say so myself. Remember that eggplant bacon I wrote about once? I skipped the fake stuff (liquid smoke) and instead brushed my eggplant with smoked paprika, oil and salt before roasting the slivers in the oven. I wasn't expecting them to come out looking anything like bacon, so I had to show you the picture below. How did the eggplant know what I wanted it to become?

Magic.

Everything at ABC Kitchen was wonderful--except for me. I had been dreaming of dining there for over a year, hearing nothing but rave reviews, tweets and "mmmm"'s and as I put on my dress to get ready...I almost threw up. Out of nowhere. Just not feeling so good. Le sigh... I did my best to literally grin and bear it but I only got through the first course. The soup was so good, it resonated despite my horrible state, but clearly I need a do-over as soon as possible. I can tell you that the pickled snacks they start you off with, the creative cocktails (I had only sips of them--that is how low I felt), the service and the stunning, rustic yet whimsical setting were without flaw. Get there if you can.

must make: crispy, savoury french toast, preserved lemons and eggplant bacon!

You know I like the savoury version of anything over the sweet, right? So when I came across this savoury french toast recipe on food52, I was sold--it even came with a recommendation to dunk it into hot sauce and to fry the toast more than you normally would. I mean, this recipe was made for me. Not that it needs improving, but cut into triangles, it is finger food fit for enjoying with a cocktail on a sunny deck--a lazy summer dinner. I highly recommend you make this recipe as written on food52 and execute it as suggested in the picture above.

I'm also crazy into citrus right now (that's a gimlet in the picture above, made with this delicious lime cordial), so this recipe for preserving lemons via Canal House caught my eye. I love the idea of having them on hand for tagines and curries, which after all, are perfect for summer dinners, given the hot climes they originated in.

And lastly, hello, eggplant bacon! Where have you been all my life? I have yet to make this but I couldn't resist sharing it with you. If you tackle it before me, please report back. And don't forget to share the recipes in your must-make list, please! Thanks!

roasted garlic and eggplant marrow with marsala, mango, tamarind sauce

MMM...marrow. That's really the only way to describe the flesh of this eggplant once it's been roasted into a spreadable pulp. The garlic, nestled into its flesh, heads in the same direction and is protected there from burning. Spooned from the skin it would be enjoyable on it's own, but it was that very marrow-like texture that got me thinking...

I used to loooove marrow when I ate meat, and growing up, my parents saved almost all of the marrow from goat curry bones and big peppery lamb stew bones for me (I could never be that selfless!) Once I was reminded of the experience when I tasted the melting flesh of this garlic-spiked eggplant, I sought a spicy compliment, something close to the flavours I missed from the marrow I used to devour. The Marsala wine and tamarind brought the richeness and peppery-ness I was after, and the mango chutney and onions tempered it with sweetness reminded me of the slight candy flavour at the end of the bone where the marrow sort of caramelizes. 

But I tested this sauce over and over and it was still missing something. I found it in a bottle...

(Above images photographed by James Piper)

must make: smoky eggplant, soup and vanilla bean pudding

The unthinkable has happened. I can't eat. No, I haven't lost my appetite (never!), but I'm not able to eat at the moment. A minor oral surgery has me drinking only broth, juice and tea--not even a mushy noodle can cross my lips for days! Don't even get me started on not being allowed to put wine in my sippy cup. 

And not being able to eat even soft food has me, of course, daydreaming about soft food. As soon as I can manage it, I know I'll be finding a way to make the mashed, smoky eggplant pictured above, without using charcoal (suggestions, anyone?) The recipe (and the picture) are from a new-to-me blog called Istanbul Eats and they've just started posting simple but mouth-watering recipes like this one.

There are two soups I can imagine being able to get down: my roasted onion and fennel soup is silky and still perfect for winter. And I can't wait to try this curried lentil and apricot soup from the famed soup spot RaviSoups! 

Plus this is the perfect excuse to make this vanilla bean pudding, which I'd pick over chocolate any day.

Oh, and in case you're wondering, I ate a LOT in advance of this procedure to bring you as many posts as recipes as always. Next week will be a very unique week, in fact. I'm featuring recipes from an entire menu. It was a collaboration and a special meal that I have been wanting to share with you for months. 

broiled eggplant with pesto

the thing about eggplant is that it's not fun to eat raw. i have a feeling that people who dislike or are even on the fence about eggplant have suffered through a meal of half-cooked stir-fried eggplant, for instance. if you follow simon hopkinson's instructions perfectly, but use an eggplant as large as the one i used, you would be very disappointed. checking for doneness can be just as important as checking your seasoning--something else you should do with this, and every other recipe you follow.

but you were going to do all of that anyway, i know, and so you would end up with the same result i did, which is this:

eggplant as luscious as marrow. trust me, eggplant baked with oil until it's postively silky is quite comparable in texture to marrow (something you couldn't keep me away from in my meat-eating days), and adding this much pesto to the top is simply indulgent. if you feel the need to restrain yourself a little, using half the pesto would probably be fine. otherwise, slather away, stand by during the broiling phase, and try to contain yourself while the bubbling vegetable and sauce cools down enough to dive into.

broiled eggplant with pesto

from the vegetarian option

ys notes: the size of the eggplant will determine the baking time. i suggest checking the eggplant after 30 minutes and if the eggplant is still opaque at the base, bake for another 5 minutes before broiling. also, if your eggplant is very large, score the eggplant 3/4 of the way to the skin, not just 3/4 inch deep. oh, and if the eggplant your cooking is that large, believe me, this recipe will serve 4.

1 large eggplant
about 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
salt and freshly ground pepper
3 tablespoons pine nuts
a large bunch of basil
3 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
3 tablespoons freshly grated pecorino or parmesan
½ lemon, to serve

preheat the oven to 425°F. cut the eggplant lengthwise in half, through the stalk. using a small, sharp knife, make a crisscross pattern across the cut surfaces, to a depth of about 3/4 inch. brush with a little of the olive oil and season. bake in the oven for 20 to 30 minutes. the flesh should be very soft.

meanwhile, lightly toast the pine nuts in a dry skillet, then remove from the skillet and cool. process the basil, garlic, and pine nuts, together with a little salt and pepper, to a paste in a food processor (or use a mortar and pestle for a more authentic result). now add enough of the olive oil to produce a loose-textured purée. finally, briefly mix in the cheese.

spread the pesto over the scored surfaces of the eggplant and broil until golden and bubbling. serve with a squeeze of lemon.

serves 2.

 

deviled eggplant

 

this recipe was borne out of necessity, if you consider that i have no choice but to deal with my cravings for a particular food when they come up, or i'll think of nothing else meanwhile. i was craving the flavours in my dad's deviled tofu, but not necessarily the puffed tofu, which while delicious, is a little processed and is something i indulge in sparingly. then the idea to try it with my aunt's silky, fried eggplant occurred to me and i've never looked back. that eggplant alone is so addictive that i have a hard time not eating all of it off the cooling rack before it even hits the actual sauce it's destined for. in this recipe too, it absorbs the spices perfectly, plus eggplants hang out with tomatoes and onions in about a million recipes--they just go well together.

it's a given that i would test a recipe like this several times, even though it's a blend of two previously tested recipes. never mind, those repetitions; i've made this at least seven times since trying it just two months ago. it's so good i had to share it at a dinner party, and it went over really well. i served it that night with my mom's "tempered rice" (read: rice fried in butter--recipe to come!), and in the pictures below with wild rice. but sopping up the spicy sauce with bread or naan is as brilliant an idea as any.

 

 

in addition to the tweaks i made to the spices when i tested this recipe, making it for that dinner party was enlightening. imagine my surprise when i doubled my recipe and it yielded, oh, almost nothing more than the original volume. and my guests were coming in an hour. i had to fry and cook almost another whole batch of eggplant to get to a serving for 8. the eggplant cooks down so much, plus it's so luscious that you definitely want to make enough so that you don't have to hold back when heaping a serving on your plate. i have included instructions on how to feed a crowd with this, because it's definitely worthy of your friend. your very favourite ones.

deviled eggplant

(an adaptation of my dad's deviled tofu and my aunt's fried eggplant curry recipes) 

*note on doubling or even tripling this recipe: the eggplant soaks up so much of the sauce that doubling the quantities will feed 6. to serve 8, you'll need to triple it. however, while you are fine to double and triple the amount of eggplant and tomato called for, you should only moderately increase (by half) the onions, cayenne and salt, and there's no need to increase turmeric or cinnamon. 

4 japanese eggplants
1/4 c white vinegar
1/2 tsp turmeric
1/2 tsp salt
vegetable or peanut oil for frying


2 roma tomatoes, quartered and thinly sliced
1 small onion, sliced into 1/2-inch rings
10 curry leaves
1 3-inch piece of rampe (pandan or screw pine leaves)
2 cardamom pods
1 piece of cinnamon
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 1-inch piece of ginger, peeled and thinly sliced
1/4 tsp cayenne pepper, or slightly more for a very spicy dish
1 tsp paprika
1 tbs sugar
1 tsp salt
1 tsp black pepper
1/2 c water
1 tbs vegetable or peanut oil

fry the eggplant:
slice eggplants; first, cut each eggplant crosswise into 3-inch pieces. then cut those pieces in half lengthwise. finally cut all pieces, lengthwise, into 1/3-inch thick pieces. in a large bowl, mix vinegar, 1/2 tsp turmeric and 1/2 tsp salt together. add eggplant and toss to coat well in the marinade.

in a wide, heavy pan, pour about 1/2-inch of oil. heat over high heat, then add eggplant carefully, and fry in batches (do not overcrowd oil) until eggplant is golden (about 4-5 minutes/batch). transfer to a plate lined with paper towels or to a lined cooling rack. set pan aside to allow oil to cool. then store oil in a jar to use the next time you make this dish, if you wish.


heat another pan over medium-high heat. add 1 tbs of oil, allow it to get hot. when the oil is hot, add curry leaves, rampe, cardamom and cinnamon and stir-fry for 30 seconds. then add the garlic and ginger and stir-fry for 30 seconds. add the cayenne, paprika, sugar, salt and pepper, and stir-fry for 30 seconds. then add the the tomatoes, stir and cook for 2 minutes, stirring frequently. add the onions and water, stir and allow to cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally (do not overcook the onions). add the eggplant, stir and cook for 2 minutes. remove cardamom, cinnamon and rampe (the curry leaves are edible and good for you!), and serve hot.

serves 4.*

fried eggplant curry

(photographed by james piper) 

 

when my aunt cooks anything for you, you're in for a treat. when my aunt makes her famous eggplant, james looses his mind. it is that good, and it's his absolute favourite. my mom won't mind me telling you that although others make this dish (my mom's recipe is delicious), my aunt's version is the one people cannot get over. because this month i'm focusing on recipes from the cooks closest to me, i was totally excited to share this one with you. my aunt actually cooked alongside me, recipe-testing and tweaking as we went, so it's extra special. you may think i'm biased, but you too, are in for a treat with this recipe. 

 

(photographed by james piper) 

 

japanese eggplants yield the best results here, and a very different one from large eggplants, so do get these thin, pale purple eggplants when you try this recipe. it calls for many of the same ingredients that most of the sri lankan recipes on my site call for, including my mom's pumpkin curry recipe from last week. see why you need to get these few leaves and spices into your pantry? they're going to pop up here time and again and they are so worth having. they keep well and i promise you, they come together to make the most delicious curries. (side note: i'm starting a mini-glossary of some lesser-known ingredients and where you might find them soon! but if you need help before then, just leave a comment.)

 

(photographed by james piper) 

as with any recipe where you're frying in oil, get the oil to the right temperature (350-360 degrees), and you won't burn your ingredients, nor will they suck up a lot of oil. a fry thermometer comes in handy for this recipe--so does a splatter guard. in lieu of those, just use even more caution than you normally use when frying in oil--which is a lot, right? good.

 

(photographed by james piper) 

 

while frying eggplant in batches requires a little patience, it's not at all hard, nor is any part of this recipe. the eggplant is cooked perfectly after frying, and simmers to the silkiest state in the curry. the flavours in the finished dish are deep and pair perfectly with the pumpkin curry and the other recipes coming up. but really, you could eat this eggplant on it's own by the forkful. james does. (what? you do.)

fried eggplant curry

2 1/2 lbs japanese eggplants
1/4 c white vinegar
1/2 tsp turmeric
1/2 tsp salt
vegetable or peanut oil for frying

1 small onion, halved 
1 green chili, sliced
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 1-inch piece ginger, sliced
10 curry leaves, fresh or frozen
1 3-inch piece rampe (pandan or screw pine leaves)
1/2 tsp ground turmeric
1/2 tsp mustard powder
1/2 tsp chili powder
1/2 tsp paprika
1/4 tsp cinnamon powder
1 tsp salt
1/2 can (200ml) coconut milk 

slice eggplants: first, cut each eggplant crosswise into 3-inch pieces. then cut those pieces in half lengthwise. finally cut all pieces, lengthwise, into 1/3-inch thick pieces. in a large bowl, mix vinegar, 1/2 tsp turmeric and 1/2 tsp salt together. add eggplant and toss to coat well in the marinade.

in a wide, heavy pan, pour about 1/2-inch of oil. heat over high heat, then add eggplant carefully, and fry in batches (do not overcrowd oil) until eggplant is golden (about 4-5 minutes/batch). transfer to a plate lined with paper towels.

in a large pan, add the remaining ingredients and bring to a boil over medium heat. add the fried eggplant and stir well. then lower the heat, cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is mostly absorbed. serve over rice.

makes 4-6 side servings, or 3-4 large servings.